Ukrainian embroidery (vyshyvanka) is more than a decorative element on textiles. It is a significant part of Ukrainian identity grounded in the past, flourishing in the present, and reaching into the future.

Its most recognized form can be found on the sorochka (chemise), which in more recent times has been dubbed as a “vyshyvanka”. The sorochka is not merely an article of clothing; it is a sacred artifact that embodies and preserves an individual’s origins.

Embroidery has also been applied as a decorative element to beautify one's surroundings and to preserve Ukrainian national identity during times of its suppression.

While embroidery is typically viewed as the realm of women, men also embroider. While at war, some men carried with them the necessary materials to embroider in the trenches during moments of calm.

The embroideries and textiles exhibited are from the private collections of Arnie Klein, Solomia Soroka, Katerina Sirinyok-Dolgaryova, and from the Ukrainian American Archives & Museum located in Hamtramck, Michigan.

Embroidery from Western Ukraine

A selection of traditional sorochky and embroidered decorative pillows from the second half of the 20th century. They reflect historically traditional embroidery stitches, as well as those that originate from outside Ukraine. These techniques gained popularity and became part of the variety used in traditional folk embroidery. Decorative pillows began to occur in the early 20th century as home decor in towns and cities. This gained in popularity among post-war immigrants in the Ukrainian diaspora.

Left row

Top

Woman's sorochka from Podillia

Center

Woman's sorochka from Zakarpattia*
*Please note that you are viewing the back of the garment

Bottom

Man's sorochka from Bukovina

Right row

Top

Woman's sorochka from Pokuttia

Bottom

Woman's sorochka from Polissia

Platform

Contemporary decorative pillows

From the private collection of Arnie Klein.

Contemporary woman's outfit and boys' shirts from early 2020, showcasing embroidery that is often used on clothing of this type. Such sorochky are worn on International Vyshyvanka Day, observed annually on the third Thursday of May.

To learn more about the holiday, watch this video.

On Loan from Katerina Sirinyok-Dolgaryova, WCEE Scholar at Risk.

On Photograph: Katerina Sirinyok-Dolgaryova and her two boys, Ann Arbor, 2024

Rushnyky (ritual cloths) mark important events from birth through the various stages of life for Ukrainians globally. They are also used in a sacred space (pokut) within the home honoring God and deceased family members. Some rushnyky are strictly decorative. As with other traditional folk embroidery, rushnyky employ a variety of stitches reflecting regional diversity. Three rushnyky from Central Ukraine, used during wedding ceremonies, are displayed on the pedestals. A decorative rushnyk from Cherkassy, draped on the wall, reads, from left to right: гарна дівка для любови - “a beautiful girl for love,” темна нічка дла розмови - “dark evenings for conversations.”

Rushnyky from the private collection of Arnie Klein.

Wedding photos from the Spadok project of the Ukrainian Institute of Fashion History.

Images provided by The Ukrainian American Archives and Museum.

These artifacts are examples of embroidery ranging from the past to the present. Except for the gray dress in the upper right, all originate from Borshchiv (Ternopil region of Podillia). A woman's outfit from the early 20th century is displayed on the mannequin. The modern-day blouse on the pedestal reflects current fashion while incorporating a traditional-style secondary panel on the sleeves. In the past century, Ukrainian women in the diaspora participated in annual galas known as “Embroidery Evenings.” They designed fashionable garments that incorporate elements of traditional embroidery.

Left

Upper

Borshchiv woman's sorochka

Lower pedestal

Re-creations of secondary sleeve panels from Borshchiv sorochky embroidered by, and from the private collection of Arnie Klein

Center mannequin

Woman's traditional garments from Borshchiv, early 20th century

On loan from Solomia Soroka, Ann Arbor

Right

Upper

Contemporary dress

Lower pedestal

Right

Re-creation of a secondary sleeve panel from a Borshchiv sorochka

Left

Modern day woman's blouse, early 21st century

Dress from the collection of the Ukrainian American Archives and Museum

Blouse on loan from O. Liskiwsky

Secondary sleeve panel embroidered by, and from the private collection of Arnie Klein.

Embroidery of Central and Eastern Ukraine

Embroidery from this area could be geometric or floral. Note that one of the characteristics of these sorochky is embroidery found at the hem at the bottom of the sorochka. Often but not exclusively, embroidery on these sorochky were of a single color, a combination of black and red, or with the addition of a third color such as white or pale yellow. The contemporary multicolored wall hanging and table cover use elements of centuries-old patterns and Kyivan or Poltavska hlad' (satin stitch), but in a contemporary application.

Left

Upper

Woman's sorochka from Poltava Region

Center

Woman's sorochka from Brovary Region

Above sorochky from the collection of the Ukrainian American Archives and Museum

Lower

Woman's sorochka from Poltava region

From the private collection of Arnie Klein

Lower center

Contemporary wall hanging and table cover

Creation of Maria Trepet

On loan from O. Liskiwskyi Family, Detroit

Right

Upper and lower

Women's sorochky from the Chernihiv region

From the private collection of Arnie Klein